A bullet bra fits rather differently from a modern moulded or underwired bra. The cups are made from non-stretch fabric and rely on carefully placed seams and spiral stitching to create their distinctive pointed shape. This means that choosing the right size and taking a little time to adjust the bra are particularly important.
This guide explains how to choose your What Katie Did bullet bra size, how the cups should fit and what to do if you are not achieving the smooth 1950s silhouette you expected.
Already confident about your size? Shop our Bullet Bra Collection.
Which What Katie Did Bullet Bra Is Right for You?
Our pointed bras create distinctly vintage silhouettes, but they do not all achieve them in the same way. The best choice depends on your natural bust shape, how pronounced you would like the point to be and whether you also want shaping through the waist.
Maitresse or Harlow: Classic Unpadded Bullet Bras
Best for: an authentic 1950s sweater-girl silhouette shaped by your natural bust.
Maitresse and Harlow use the same wire-free, spiral-stitched cup pattern. Maitresse is black; Harlow is vintage peach. If one fits you well, you can generally choose the same size in the other.
The non-stretch satin cups support and coax the bust forwards, but it is your own breast tissue that creates the finished point. This means the precise silhouette varies slightly from person to person. Choose these bras if you want the classic shape beneath vintage dresses, reproduction clothing or knitwear without built-in padding.
Padded Bullet Bra: The Most Dramatic Point
Best for: smaller or shallower busts, or anyone who wants a sharper and more consistent point.
The Padded Bullet Bra contains a thin 5mm layer of foam which holds the conical shape independently, rather than relying entirely on the wearer to fill the tip of the cup. It is available in black and vintage peach.
This style uses a different cup pattern from Maitresse and Harlow, although the firm band fits in the same way. It is particularly effective beneath fitted sweaters and clothing where you want the pointed silhouette to remain clearly defined.
Kate Longline Bra: Bust and Waist Shaping
Best for: a conical bust combined with smoothing and definition through the torso.
The Kate Longline Bra extends down to the waist, combining structured conical cups with firm powermesh and waist-cinching elastic. It fastens with hooks and eyes at the front and is available in black and vintage peach.
Choose Kate when the line beneath the bust matters as much as the bust shape itself—for example, beneath a fitted dress or worn as a top with a high-waisted skirt. Because it fits both the underbust and waist, check both measurements on the product page before choosing your size.
CC09: An Authentic 1940s Alternative
Best for: customers who specifically want a period-correct 1940s pointed shape.
The CC09 1940s Bra is based on an original British CC41 pattern. Although it appears in our pointed-bra collection, it is not simply another version of our spiral-stitched 1950s bullet bras.
Its non-stretch construction and historically accurate shape can feel unfamiliar if you usually wear modern lingerie, so this is a bra to choose for authenticity rather than as the easiest introduction to vintage bras. Please check its individual measurements carefully before ordering.
Once you have chosen the style that suits the silhouette you want, the next step is finding the correct size.
Bullet Bras
Choosing Your Bullet Bra Size
If you normally wear traditional cut-and-sewn bras and are happy with their fit, your usual size is a sensible place to begin. A cut-and-sewn cup is constructed from several pieces of fabric stitched together, rather than being moulded into one smooth, rounded shape.
If you mainly wear moulded, push-up or heavily padded bras, it is worth checking your measurements before ordering. Moulded cups can sometimes accommodate a range of breast shapes, whereas the non-stretch cups of an authentic bullet bra need to be filled properly to produce a smooth point.
Do not be alarmed if the size that fits you in a bullet bra differs from the size printed inside your favourite modern bra. The fit and construction are different, and the size is only a starting point: comfort, support and the finished shape matter far more than the number on the label.