Dior's 'New Look'As cinched waists make
a return we take a look at the King of Cinch
By
themselves, "waspies" and other post-war era corsets added some
fullness to the hip area, but Dior didn't rely upon natural
plumpness to achieve the full hips his designs called for. All his
designs required some sort of added fullness to the hip area--either
with padding, or modern farthingales and bustles.
Dior's suits contained padding at the
hips to achieve an ever more exaggerated hour-glass look. Dior added
flounces or peplums (usually made of gathers or tucks) to the back
of all his suit tops. Further, nearly all his skirts had built in
back flounces (similar to the smaller built-in bustles of the
Victorian era); these were usually pieces of taffeta, organza, or
some other stuff fabric gathered tightly at one end and sewn to the
centre back of the skirt at the waist.
Separate bustle or farthingale-like
garments could also be worn to further enhance the figure. These
were also made of stiff material and gathered tightly, although they
were often made of several layers and were worn all around the
waist-not just at the back. Such garments were frequently sewn to a
fabric belt and buttoned at the waist.
Dior's famous 'Bar' suit
Original sketch for the 'Bar' suit
The "waspie" and other New Look corsets
also accentuated the bust somewhat, but most women wearing The Look
also used push-up bras to help fill out their bust line. Some of
these newly invented push-up bras also contained rubber padding.
Women who needed further help were told by fashion magazines to sew
a taffeta or acetate ruffle to the bust line of their bra.
The number one item Dior used to make his long (twelve inches or
less from the ground) skirts stand full was another borrowed
Victorian item: The New Look petticoat, reminiscent of early
Victorian petticoats. Most New Look petticoats were made of stuff
nylon, taffeta, or horsehair net. Most often they had a fitted hip
yolk leading to several smooth layers of netting that ended with a
few ruffles. In order to avoid snags in nylon stockings, Dior
ingeniously softened the bottom ruffles of his petticoats with
eyelet.